Tip of the Month Archives

7/25/2008	Capture the Behavior – The “Down” Cue Most dog owners will agree that a calm, obedient dog lying quietly next to you as you watch TV, read a book, or have dinner with the family is far preferable to an in-your-face dog who just won’t relax. Getting your dog to lie down is usually a simple obedience cue to master; ABC’s method of teaching a dog the “down” cue is to food-lure the dog into position using yummy, strong-smelling treats and praising her when she gets in position accurately and in a timely manner. However, what if your dog will not allow you to lure her into the down position? What if she just does not seem to be catching on? The best way to go about mending this training issue is to capture the dog’s behavior on a regular basis, whenever you “catch” her lying down quietly. ABC deems this the “opportunistic” or “natural” down. Capturing the behavior involves praising and treating the dog whenever you observe her lying in the down position. Some owners will find that treats, toys, or praise – whatever the dog finds most rewarding – are sufficient for capturing the behavior. Some owners may choose to also use a clicker to capture the natural down. To capture the down behavior, place a handful of food treats between your dog’s front paws whenever she is calmly resting in the down position. If she does not find food treats rewarding, try giving her a favorite chew toy or verbal praise (“Good!”). Remember to do this every time you find her in the down position. She will soon learn that lying in the down position is beneficial to her and will offer the behavior more often. After repeated captures and rewards for her good down behavior, you will be able to associate a cue, i.e. the word “down,” with the behavior. Your dog will soon become much easier to coax into the down position. For more assistance with training your dog, contact an ABC Certified Dog Trainer in your area by visiting ABC’s Online Trainer Directory. See ABC’s homepage for more information.
6/25/2008	Caring for your Dog while on Vacation Summertime is a popular season for getting away on vacation, and many airlines and hotels will not allow owners to bring their dogs along for the trip, especially those of larger breeds. True relaxation will prove difficult if you are constantly worrying if Fido is being well taken care of. So, how do you ensure that your beloved canine is properly cared for while you and your family enjoy your trip? Here are a couple of reliable options for leaving your pet behind and keeping him or her happy and comfortable until you return. Boarding kennels – Boarding kennels are brick-and-mortar businesses that have been established for the sole purpose of housing and caring for pets while their owners are away. According to the American Boarding Kennel Association (ABKA), there are approximately 9,000 boarding kennels in the U.S. and Canada offering services to more than 30,000,000 pet owners annually. To find a boarding kennel in your area, you may try an internet search, phone book, or better yet, personal recommendations from experienced friends or your veterinarian. Some veterinary facilities also offer boarding services. Make sure to book your pet’s stay as early as possible as boarding facilities can become booked up, especially during popular vacationing seasons. Also, check out the facility personally in advance to make sure that supervision, sanitation, and security are up to par. All boarding kennels should require that your dog is up-to-date on his or her immunizations. For canines, required immunizations are the DHLPP (distemper, hepatitis, leptospirosis, parainfluenza and parvovirus) and bordatella vaccines. Inform the kennel staff of any special instructions upon booking your canine’s spot – for instance, if your canine is dog-aggressive and must be kept away from other dogs, this is essential for the kennel to be aware of in advance. Pet Sitters – For some dog owners, hiring a pet sitter may be preferable to boarding their dog in a kennel. A pet sitter is a person who comes to your home to feed, water, exercise, and watch over your pet while you are away. Some pet sitters offer the option of staying at your home for 24-hour supervision, though you can also choose to have them stop by once or twice daily instead, depending on your preference. One of the benefits of hiring a pet sitter is that your pooch or pooches can stay in the comfort of their own home during your absence. This can be especially comforting for the dog. You can also give more specialized instructions for care of your pet. It is recommended that you meet with pet sitters before choosing one to confirm their qualifications. Some pet sitters are certified through Pet Sitters International (PSI), meaning they are pre-screened by the association. These and other sitters can achieve certification in pet CPR as well, which can be an added comfort to an owner away from home. No matter which option you choose, make sure to personally check out the facility or sitter before leaving on vacation. Also, ensure that your pet is essentially healthy, and if he or she has special medical needs, inform the kennel operator or pet sitter of required medications prior to your departure. ABC wishes you and your pets a happy summer!
5/27/2008	Swimming with your Best Friend… Safely! Many dog owners are surely considering bringing their pooches along on their summer excursions to enjoy the season together. In regards to canine water safety, what precautions should be taken to ensure an enjoyable and secure experience for both dogs and the water enthusiasts they accompany? It is important to consider that not all dogs can swim well enough to be completely safe when in or around water. Basset hounds, French bulldogs, and English bulldogs, for example, have very short legs that usually cannot move quickly enough to keep their bodies afloat. Also, dogs of breeds that naturally have a low body fat percentage such as Doberman pinschers and Boxers are more likely to sink. While many dogs love water and can swim without a problem, others do not like water or are afraid of it. This can inhibit their ability to swim. Any dog can drown, and hypothermia is always a risk. To ensure that your canine is comfortable in water prior to taking him/her out on the water, begin by assessing his/her skills in a swimming pool or just off the shore of the lake or ocean. Never throw your dog in the water – introduce him/her to swimming slowly without encouraging a negative reaction. If he/she seems happy and proficient at swimming, you can attempt an outing on your boat or at the beach, but keep your first outing brief. You may consider purchasing and using a canine personal flotation device (PFD) as this can help them to float in case they fall off of a boat or get pulled out into the ocean. Many manufacturers have created PFDs for dogs that come in various sizes and colors. Bring your canine with you when purchasing a PFD so you can try it on him/her for correct sizing. PFDs for canines often come equipped with a handle on the back of the vest that allows the owner to lift the dog out of the water if necessary. You may want to choose a vest of a color that stands out, such as neon yellow or orange. This can help you to find your dog in the water. Remember that the sun’s rays and heat are harmful to not only humans but dogs, too. Dogs can get sunburned (especially those with short fur and/or pink skin) and can suffer the severe repercussions of heatstroke just as humans can. Early heatstroke symptoms include heavy panting, rapid breathing, excessive drooling, bright red gums and tongue, and standing four-square in an attempt to maintain balance. White or blue gums, lethargy or unwillingness to move, uncontrollable urination or defecation, labored, noisy breathing, and shock are all signs of advanced stages of heatstroke. You can cool your dog down by applying rubbing alcohol to his/her paw pads, applying ice packs to the groin area, hosing him/her down with water, and allowing the dog to lick ice chips or drink a small amount of water. Pedialyte to restore electrolytes is also recommended. Have a ton of summer fun with your dogs!
4/25/2008	“Give your Paw” or “Shake” Teaching your dog to give you her paw or to shake hands on command is a cute trick that is both impressive and endearing to onlookers. Dogs who are prone to “pawing” (using their paws to play and/or to gain attention) are best suited for this trick, though other dogs can be trained easily as well. Once this trick is mastered, there are variations that can be taught, including the “high five” and the “wave.” Let’s begin with some simple steps as instructed by Gerilyn J. Bielakiewicz in her book, The Everything Dog Training and Tricks Book (Adams Media Corporation, Avon, Massachusetts; 2003). For this exercise, you will need a good amount of yummy, strong-smelling treats and a clicker. Determine what gets your dog to paw at you and utilize it to get her to lift her paw. If she is not prone to pawing, try scratching her chest, holding a treat in your fist at nose height, or touching her toenails your finger. Try using your outstretched hand as a prompt. Once the dog’s paw is in the air, immediately click and treat. Repeat this process 15 to 20 times or until the dog is readily offering her paw. Leave your hand outstretched for the dog’s paw and wait it out without prompting. As soon as she lifts her paw, click and treat. If the dog is not lifting her paw after a few seconds, repeat a few more repetitions as described earlier until she associates lifting her paw with the click and treat. Try connecting the cue (your outstretched hand) with the behavior (the dog offering her paw) by showing your hand and clicking and treating when the dog stretches out her paw. Once the dog is offering the behavior on a regular basis, you can add the verbal cue “give your paw,” “paw,” “shake,” or whatever you choose. Remember to be consistent. Practice this trick in a variety of places and under several different circumstances. If the trick is not working, simplify things once again by practicing at home with few distractions. Be careful not to overwhelm your dog. Avoid repeating yourself over and over; give one cue, wait for the dog to respond, then click and treat. If your dog is not responding consistently every time, try practicing more repetitions under low-stress conditions. Set your dog up to succeed and she will learn to do this trick consistently.
3/25/2008	Just Say No to Table Scraps – Human Foods that are Poisonous to Dogs When little Fido is sitting at your feet under the dinner table with his wiggly tail wagging and his eyes bright and pleading, it can be tempting to toss a scrap of your dinner under the table to him. He gobbles it up with delight and awaits his next treat, and you can almost see his adoration for you growing. However, there is more than one reason to avoid feeding table scraps to your beloved, spoiled little guy. Not only does it teach him that begging brings rewards, but you can also inadvertently be causing harm to your pooch. Here we will discuss human foods that are poisonous and sometimes deadly to canines. According to the Humane Society of the United States, the following foods are harmful and even potentially deadly to canines: • Chocolate, coffee, tea, and other products containing caffeine • Alcoholic beverages • Fruit pits and seeds • Bones from fish, poultry, and other meat • Fat trimmings from meat • Any candy containing the artificial sweetener Xylitol • Grapes and raisins • Onions and onion powder • Garlic • Salt • Macadamia nuts • Mushrooms and mushroom plants • Hops • Potato, rhubarb, and tomato leaves and stems • Yeast dough Moldy, spoiled foods, such as those found in garbage, are another source of toxins that can cause illness in a dog. Garbage often contains multiple toxins that can induce vomiting and diarrhea. In addition, other organs and systems are affected and the damage can be permanent and severe. This is yet another reason to avoid feeding your canine table scraps. If you insist on spoiling your canine companion from time-to-time, remember that table scraps are not nutritionally balanced and should never exceed 10% of his diet.
2/25/2008	Canine Vehicle Safety Systems Studies show that seatbelts save lives – according to the NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration), 64% of people killed in car accidents were not wearing a seatbelt. For this reason and due to the enforcement of seatbelt laws, most people wear seatbelts while driving and while riding in the cars of others. However, many people neglect to follow the same precaution with their dogs, allowing their dogs to roam freely inside the cab of their vehicle and endangering their lives. Think about it – the average Labrador Retriever weighs approximately 60 to 75 lbs, which is the same average weight for an 8-year-old child. An unrestrained Labrador would receive the same trauma that an 8-year-old child not wearing a seatbelt would in an accident. We wouldn’t let our children ride without seatbelts – so we should make sure we “buckle up” our precious companions as well. While seatbelts did not always exist for dogs, this has changed in the recent past with the invention of canine vehicle safety systems. One excellent canine restraint system is the Ruff Rider “Roadie” which is manufactured by Ruff Rider Products, LLC. The Roadie's tensile strength exceeds the Society of American Engineers’ tensile strength standards for human seatbelts of 5,000 pounds. In addition, in creating the “Roadie,” consideration was given to the forces that occur in all directions while traveling in the car in both normal and emergency situations. Thus, this system was manufactured with great attention to all things that could go wrong and injure a dog while he is a passenger in a vehicle. Canine vehicle safety systems can be purchased from many pet supply stores. The “Roadie” offers 5 models to choose from, and they manufacture systems that fit dogs ranging in weight from 7 to 160 lbs. Make sure to choose the right size for your dog as proper fit is essential in maximizing the efficacy of the system. Also, read all manufacturers’ instructions for adjusting and applying the harness to your canine. Be patient during the first few tries as your dog may resist being strapped down. However, while applying the harness may prove tedious at first, it can make a world of difference in the event of an accident.
1/25/2008	Work Out Together The amount of daily physical activity your dog needs depends on her age, breed, and current state of health; however, every dog requires and thrives on at least 30 minutes of vigorous daily exercise. If you are an active person with an exercise regime, try incorporating your dog in your own routine. Involving your best friend will brighten up her day. Not only will she be getting extra time to spend with you, but she will obtain added socialization, become more focused, and maintain her fitness and health. When exercising together, there are several things to keep in mind. First of all, make sure your dog is properly hydrated and has access to a sufficient amount of water during and after exercising. Secondly, if walking or running on concrete or other rough surfaces, check the pads of her feet frequently for cuts and scrapes. Try changing up the surfaces on which you walk and run; constant running on concrete can be hard on a dog’s joints and bones. Also, make sure to follow all leash laws at all times. Allowing your dog to run off leash can not only earn you a ticket, but it could also cause him/her to dash out into the street or up to another (less friendly) dog. Finally, make sure you start off slowly and gradually build up the distance that you walk or run. Here are some ideas for working out with your dog. Not all dogs will enjoy all activities, so find what the best joint workout routine is for both you and your canine. • Walking or running • Hiking • Mountain biking • Rollerblading • Dog park • Interactive fetch • Hide-and-seek
12/28/2007	Chew Toys Rawhide (Compressed and Knotted) Rawhides are made of bovine (cow) or swine (pig) hides which have been dried and processed into many different shapes and sizes. Many are available in compressed varieties. As the name suggests, compressed chews are processed hides that have been tightly compressed into different shapes and may have added flavoring such as garlic, beef, or cheese for additional appeal. Some compressed rawhides have a knot tied on each end. A well-made rawhide should have some flexibility when twisted and should be made in North America to reduce the amounts of added chemicals (such as formaldehyde). Some rawhides have been washed in formaldehyde or bleached with titanium oxide (which turns them white), so use caution when selecting a chew. Rawhides are great for relieving boredom, exercising teeth and gums, and satisfying a dog’s need to chew. When selecting rawhides, always choose one that appears too large for the dog so the dog can not chew and swallow it in a short period of time. Also take care to make sure the dog cannot fit the rawhide completely into his mouth. When the dog is able to hold the entire chew in his mouth, it’s time to take it away. Some dogs manage to shred rawhide chews. This results in small pieces of rawhide hanging off the chew. If this occurs, simply cut them away with scissors as this will prevent the dog from ingesting them. ALWAYS supervise any dog with any type of rawhide. Pros • Dogs love the intense flavor and aroma of most rawhides. • Compressed rawhide is more durable and long lasting than shredded compressed rawhide. Cons • An aggressive chewer may swallow, gulp down large pieces or consume an entire rawhide quickly, which could cause an intestinal blockage. • Some dogs may suffer from broken teeth or slab fractures of molars from chewing compressed rawhides, so ALWAYS supervise any dog with any type of chew. • Some added flavorings (visible or not) may stain carpets, some fabrics, and some porous floorings which in turn can stimulate chewing on these items. • Chemical preservatives found in various types of inferior rawhide may be dangerous to your dog.
11/26/2007	Crates Airline Crate Airline crates are a solid plastic construction crate with wire vents on the sides and a wire door. Fit The dog should have room to stand up and turn around comfortably in the crate with the door shut. These crates come in many different sizes so finding a good fit is fairly easy. Usage The crate is a great management tool and a great housebreaking tool. The crate should have safe toys that the dog finds interesting and should not be viewed as a form of punishment. Pros • Crate training can help solve a number of behavior problems including separation anxiety, house training, chewing, and unruly house behavior. • Dogs are den animals and the crate simulates the close dark effect of the den. This is often soothing to a dog and allows them to instinctively feel safe while in the crate. • The confining nature of the crate helps the owner to maintain control of the dog and prevents the dog from making mistakes that will cause training set backs. • The crate dismantles for easy cleaning and storage. Cons • Some people leave the dog in the crate too long. • The crate takes up quite a bit of space when you have a large dog and rarely do they match any house decor. • Some people may be resistant to the idea of confining their dog in a crate.
10/25/2007	Squeaky Toys The most popular type of squeaky toy is a brightly colored, latex toy that has a high pitched “squeaky” sound that usually captures a dog’s attention. These toys are great during obedience classes when teaching new behaviors such as the “down” or “attention” and are easily hidden in your pocket. Pros • Most are easily washable and dogs love the high pitched sound. Cons • These are NOT to be used as chew toys because they tear easily and can be swallowed. Never leave any squeaky toy unattended with a dog.
9/25/2007	Rope Toys Rope toys are tightly knotted cotton ropes which are available in many different sizes, shapes, and lengths. Some have multiple knots, balls, bones or handles attached for various types of entertainment. When choosing a rope toy find one that cannot completely fit into the dog’s mouth. Always choose a longer length rope toy to prevent accidental ingestion or injury when using it as an interactive toy. Pros • Most rope toys are soft and flexible which are attractive to many dogs. • They can be used for various interactive games or as a supervised chew toy. • They may be soaked in cool water for teething puppies but should never be left unsupervised. Cons • Rope toys are not for aggressive chewers that may swallow or chew the rope toy into pieces. Never leave any dog unsupervised with any rope toy. • Because they are soft and flexible some dogs may mistake them for clothing or other inappropriate fabric objects. This could stimulate problem chewing.
8/21/2007	The Long Line A long line is a 10 – 50 foot length of material with a loop handle on one end and a snap or clip to attach to a collar on the other. The material is normally nylon but can also be rope and in some rare cases chain. When using a Long Line, the dog should always be desensitized to the long line before any actual work is done with it. The idea behind using a long line is to have it there for safety only but to give the dog the illusion that he/she is "off leash" and can go anywhere he/she would like. The long line is a safety measure to use when introducing distance and distraction to an already trained dog and understood cue. It also has many other uses including safely working on the come command at a park.
7/27/2007	Leadership Exercise It is extremely stressful to most dogs to be without a leader. Because of this, it is your job as a responsible dog owner to become a kind and benevolent leader (role model) for your dog. Most dogs will develop a more relaxed and confident demeanor with a strong desire to please their new role model once the leadership role has been assumed. I am sure most of you have heard the saying, “follow the leader”. It is very important to establish house rules and enforce them firmly and fairly. Here are some simple exercises that will allow you to show your dog that his humans are good leaders and that your dog has a responsibility to the family to serve and follow the leaders of the pack. These are simple things you can do throughout the course of the day to demonstrate to your dog who the leader is. 1. Never allow your dog to sleep on beds and furniture. 2. Prepare the dogs’ meal and set it aside while you eat your meal. It is not absolutely necessary that an entire meal be eaten before feeding the dog. Taking approximately 5 minutes to eat a few crackers and drink a glass of water will send the message that the leader is eating first. Make sure to ignore the dog while you are eating and only give him his meal if he is not whining or demanding to be fed. 3. When walking through doorways, always walk out the door ahead of your dog. This lets your dog know you are the leader. A properly trained dog who knows his place in the family would never push you out of the way to get through the doorway first or come inside without being invited. Something as small as who goes through the door first can communicate to the dog who the leader in the household is.
6/21/2007	Is your dog digging because he is too hot? A dog that digs to create cooling holes to lie in typically will not stop digging unless something else is done to cool him/her off. There are certain breeds of dogs; long haired breeds especially, that are going to need a place to be cool during the heat of the day. There are several things you can try including making certain that there is some sort of overhang, under which, the dog can lie under for shade. You might also consider shaving your dog, or purchasing a small wading pool for the dog to lie in, as this is a great way to help your dog stay cool. Many dogs are content to lie in one or two inches of water in the pool and, although they would be muddy at the end of the day, they would be far less motivated to dig because they were able to go to a place to get cool. Mister hoses available at hardware stores are not only good for cooling, but can keep flies away. These are definitely things worth obtaining to help your dog stay comfortable in this hot weather.
5/25/2007	Housebreaking Most dogs do not like to eliminate in the area that they lay in. By confining your dog to a small area you can make sure she will not eliminate until you take her outside to go to the bathroom. Give your puppy her meals at the same time every day. Remember to take her out to the same bathroom area using the same door each time at regular intervals. In the beginning, take your puppy outside to go “potty” every 30 minutes. If you take her out and she doesn’t “go” within in 5 minutes, bring her back in and confine her in her crate or other very small area. Keep taking her out every 30 minutes until she goes. Every time your puppy goes “potty” within 5 minutes of being outside, praise her and give her another 5 minutes to make sure she is completely empty. Going “potty” outside is rewarded by giving your puppy 10-20 minutes of monitored free time in the house. After 7 days of no accidents, you can slowly start lengthening the free time in the house. Anytime your puppy is in the house you must watch her closely so you can interrupt her if you see her getting restless, sniffing about or even just moving away from the group. Don’t yell or charge over to her, you want to interrupt, not frighten her. Then calmly take her outside to “go”. If your puppy has an accident in the house, don’t punish or scold her! That will only make training more difficult. Calmly take your puppy out to her bathroom area and clean the accident with an odor neutralizer. Most puppies have accidents in the house because their owners allow them too much freedom in the house too quickly.
4/25/2007	Jumping Since jumping is a natural way for dogs to greet each other and get attention, the best solution will involve teaching your dog another way to greet you and to get your attention. Teach your dog to sit when greeting you and/or guests. Reward the sit behavior by giving your dog attention, praise, and petting when she sits. Remember not to be too enthusiastic in your praise since this may encourage further jumping. It is critical to be consistent when teaching your dog not to jump. Avoid rough games, as well as vigorous playful petting, since all these types of interactions may encourage jumping behavior. Owners that teach their dogs that jumping is acceptable at some times, but not at others will almost always have a difficult time eliminating the problem. When your dog jumps on you, immediately turn away from her. Most dogs will continue jumping for approximately 10 seconds before trying another approach. Typically, they will come around and try to face you, and then jump again. If this happens, turn the other way and continue to ignore the behavior. It takes patience, since some dogs may continue jumping for several minutes before they stop. After the dog stops jumping for at least 2 seconds, you may turn to her to praise and pet her in the non-jumping position. Keep your hands low and slow. If she starts to jump again, turn away from her. When she stops jumping, turn around and begin petting her again. Continue this until the dog realizes you will pet her only when she is not jumping.
3/22/2007	Food Treats Using food treats during training is a wonderful and efficient way to motivate a dog to try new behaviors. There are many types of treats that are available in stores today, but always use a treat that is healthy for your dog and one he finds irresistible. When using training treats, try to keep the size as small as possible, such as the size of a pea. Some dogs fill up on treats quickly which could decrease the interest level the dog has for participating in the training sessions. It is always a good idea to have a variety of treats in your bait bag because you never know which one will encourage the desired behavior in a highly distractible situation. Using training treats during the learning phase of a new behavior will usually dramatically increase your chances of success. Once a dog understands the desired behavior, you can fade out the training treats over a slow period of time. If, at any time, the dog becomes confused or frustrated, you can always reintroduce a favorite treat to motivate the dog to stick with the training session.
2/27/2007	Begging for Food Any and all feeding of your dog at the table must stop. The entire family must consistently ignore all of your dog’s begging behavior. If your dog does not receive a reward for begging, the behavior will stop. Give your dog a nylabone soaked in broth just before you sit down to eat, not after she starts begging. Remember when your dog fixates on chewing her bone, she is much less likely to bother you at the table. Until your dog attains a decent level of obedience, try putting her on a leash. Use a chain leash if you are worried about your dog chewing a nylon or leather leash. Tie the leash to a chair or wedge it in the door while you eat. Tie your dog so that she is in sight but not able to reach the table. Praise your dog when she is lying or sitting quietly.
1/26/2007	Inappropriate Digging Without the dog seeing you, fill the holes up with the dog's stool and lava rocks and cover it with about 1 inch of dirt. Dogs will often dig in the same general area so when the dog goes to dig there again, the dog will find it unpleasant and will either stop immediately or move to a new spot. If they move to a new spot, just continue to fill the new holes and over a period of no more than 2 weeks, the dog should stop. Do not ever let the dog see you planting or working in the garden. In addition, do not let him see you filling in holes he has already dug. If the dog sees you digging, it is only natural for him to assume it is acceptable behavior. When you see the dog out in the back yard, engaging in proper behavior, (i.e. chewing on his toys, sunning himself, etc.), praise that behavior. Remember, the more you positively reinforce a behavior, the stronger that behavior is going to be and the greater the likelihood that the dog will engage in it, both when you are there and when you are not.
12/18/2006	Time for a Walk: Time for Socialization Socializing your dog is an important factor of owning him/her, perhaps even more so than training them to understand basic obedience cues. By socializing your dog properly, you are teaching him/her that the people, animals and objects your dog encounters on a daily basis pose no threat of any kind, in fact, these things can be fun. Although dog parks are a great place to meet other canine friends, placing a dog into that situation right away can be overwhelming. What other options are there? A great time for socialization is during your walks around the neighborhood. Before leaving your home, grab several treats and store them away in a treat pouch or pocket. When a stranger approaches, have your dog sit next to you, then hand the person some treats. Ask the person to slowly approach your dog and give the dog a few treats from their open hand and at the dog’s level. Praise the dog lavishly for taking the treats. Continue your walk and repeat the above scenario for each person you come across, making sure the dog sits before receiving the treat. Giving your dog food treats around unfamiliar people, will help build a positive association to approaching humans. The dog will soon learn, “People are fun. When a person comes, I get a treat.” Work on socializing your dog to different people, based on age, gender, race, clothing accessories, etc. starting with the least threatening. If your dog shows signs of fear or aggression, or has in the past, do not attempt the exercise without an experienced dog trainer present. These behavioral issues require the help of a seasoned professional. By incorporating obedience cues with proper socialization, your dog should grow up to be a well-mannered member of the family.
11/28/2006	Timing is Everything! When training your dog, timing is extremely important. This means each time you ask your dog to do something, you only have a second or two to let the dog know he has done the right thing or the wrong thing. If you miss this window of opportunity, it may be too late for your dog to connect his actions to your reward or punishment. If your dog does the right thing, immediately reward him by giving him something he likes, like a treat or a belly rub. Equally as important, if your dog does the wrong thing, let him know by either ignoring him or refusing to give him the treat he is yearning for. Providing instant feedback to your dog about his performance will establish clear lines of communication which will result in effective and happy training lessons.
10/28/2006	Behavior Tip- What drives your dog? Behavior drives can be defined as the instincts that contribute to making a dog act the way he does. Almost everything a dog does can be attributed to a specific behavior drive (i.e. digging or chasing). Drives are usually genetic and are consistent within a breed or breed group. Most purebred dogs are bred to enhance certain drives which will make them better at their job or easier to train. One example of a drive is Prey Drive. Prey drive can be described as the dog’s willingness to chase and catch an object or to play tug-of-war. A dog that enjoys chasing a ball or toy will be excited if presented with one of these objects as a reward for a job well done. If you have a dog that has high prey drive, try to reward him by throwing his tennis ball after he has done a great sit-stay. Throwing the ball instead of giving the dog a treat will be of more value to the dog which will help enforce the desired behavior. Some dogs have a higher prey drive than others. When attempting to use a dog’s prey drive for training, it may be necessary to limit exposure to the dog’s favorite ball or toy to training sessions only. Remember, a dog with little or no prey drive (i.e. doesn’t like to play fetch or tug-of-war) will not consider this a reward. Without prey drive, using a toy as a reward may be an exercise in futility.
9/22/2006	Playing Fetch to Exercise your Dog Playing “fetch” helps you build a good relationship with your dog. This simple game lets your dog interact with you and expend energy in a constructive manner. Dogs that do not get enough exercise can often act “hyper” or out of control and engage in destructive behavior. Playing “fetch” is easy for you and is a fun way to exercise your dog. We believe whoever said “A tired dog is a good dog” was absolutely right. Steps for teaching the game of “Fetch” 1. Select a retrieving toy the dog likes to place in his mouth. Some dogs prefer the feel of certain toys more than others. 2. Place the retrieving toy a few inches in front of the dog’s mouth and move it around in a playful way to encourage the dog to reach out and grab it. 3. When the dog will happily grab the toy out of your hand, place the toy a bit further away than before and entice him to grab it. Once the dog grabs the toy start running backwards, guiding the dog toward you, and verbally praising him the entire time. Get excited about the dog running toward you with the toy in his mouth and lavish him with praise when he reaches you. 4. To teach the dog to release the toy once he reaches you, try trading him for one of his favorite treats. If the treat is yummy enough, most dogs will happily accept the swap. 5. Repeat this exercise until you can toss the toy on the ground and the dog grabs it and returns it to you. This is the “fetch” game. 6. A leash may be needed initially to guide the dog toward you but can be removed once the dog understands the game.
8/18/2006	Kong! The King of Toys The Kong is one of today's most recognizable dog toys on the market. It not only acts as a great toy that bounces unpredictably when dropped, but is also a great way to keep your pooch occupied. The Kong has a hollow center that allows an owner to stuff it with any treats the dog finds delicious, such as peanut butter, hard biscuits, or cheese. Many dogs will spend hours licking and playing with the Kong trying to get at the yummy contents. Kongs are available in two different natural rubber formulas to meet a dog’s chewing needs. The Red Kong is made for average chewers and comes in variety of sizes (S, M, L, and XL). The Black Kong is made of extra thick rubber, which is designed for tenacious chewers, and available in two sizes (L, XL). There are many different types and shapes of Kongs available in most pet stores for all types of dogs. Please note that dogs should always be supervised when using Kongs until the owner is confident they can be used safely when not home.
7/11/2006	Opps! Try Again! When first teaching a dog a new behavior it is important to let him know when he has done the right thing and when he has done the wrong thing. Offering the dog a favorite food treat or toy when he does the right thing will teach him to repeat the desired behavior when asked. It is equally as important to let him know when he has done the wrong thing. This can be accomplished by saying the word "No" and then guiding him into the proper behavior each time. By consistently guiding the dog into the desired behavior after each “No” instead of physically correcting the dog, the dog will soon start to offer the correct behavior when he hears the word "No." This type of training technique is common amongst positive motivational trainers today.
6/16/2006	Fido's Daily To-Do List Most professional dog trainers would agree that incorporating basic training exercises, like sit, stay, down, and come into a persons everyday routine will help establish and maintain the proper relationship between a dog and dog owner. Neglecting these day to day opportunties is even considered to be a missed training lesson. Here are some examples of how owners can incorporate training into their everyday routine. 1. Have your dog sit and stay while you place his/her food bowl down. Once you say "OK" your dog can eat the food. 2. Have your dog lay down and stay at the doorway before saying "OK" to invite the dog inside. 3. Instead of going up to your dog and petting him/her, call him to you when he least expects it and then reward him with praise and/or a treat you had hidden in your pocket.
5/31/2006	Rewarding Alternative Behavior If you’re attempting to eliminate an undesirable behavior, remember to reward your dog for engaging in some other behavior that is appropriate. For example, if you’re attempting to eliminate jumping up on your guests, reward your dog for sitting, which is both incompatible with jumping and is a more desirable greeting. Other examples are chewing on a bone rather than the table leg (or you) or being quiet rather than barking. This concept is extremely important for all dogs, but especially puppies under five months of age when their lifetime personalities and habits are being formed.
4/22/2006	Got Chewing problems? Try Apple Bitter Spray! Cute puppy chewing can turn into a very expensive and destructive habit. One way to discourage dogs from chewing is to use Apple Bitter Spray. This is a bitter tasting spray used to deter inappropriate chewing because it has a terrible taste that dogs hate! It typically comes in a non-aerosol bottle and should be applied daily to objects you wish the dog to avoid. This product alone typically will not break the dog from chewing; it should be coupled with proper training to redirect the behavior. You can find this and other great training products at http://www.petexpertise.com/item--Bitter-Apple-Spray--bitterapple.html